Abrasion and Pilling

Abrasion Resistance
(ASTM D3886, Inflated Diaphragm Method, Stoll-Quartermaster Abrasion Tester)

This method is intended to determine the resistance to abrasion of woven and knitted textile fabrics using the inflated diaphragm tester. A conditioned specimen is abraded by rubbing multi-directionally against an abradant having specified surface characteristics. The specimen is held in a fixed position and supported by an inflated rubber diaphragm, which is held under a constant pressure. Resistance to abrasion is evaluated in cycles.

Abrasion Resistance
(ASTM D3884, Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)

This test method covers the determination of the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics using the rotary platform, double-head tester. A conditioned specimen is abraded using rotary rubbing action under controlled conditions of pressure and abrasive action. The test specimen, mounted on a platform, turns on a vertical axis against the sliding rotation of two abrading wheels. One abrading wheel rubs the specimen outward toward the periphery and the other inward toward the center. The resulting abrasion marks form a pattern of crossed arcs over an area of approximately 30 sq. cm. Resistance to abrasion is evaluated.

Pilling Resistance
(ASTM 3512 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and other related surface changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester Method)

This test method covers the determination of resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics. This method utilizes the Random Tumble Pilling Tester and is applicable to all types of woven and knitted apparel fabrics. Pills are defined as bunches of balls of tangled fibers that are held to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers.

Specimens are conditioned in the environment chamber and then tumbled in cork lined cylinders with cotton sliver. Three bias cut replicates are tested for 30 and 60 minutes each. Samples are evaluated using the photographic rating standards in the Macbeth Light Booth (daylight conditions); a rating of 1 indicates very severe pilling while a rating of 5 represents no pilling.

Colorfastness

Crocking
(AATCC 8, Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC Crockmeter Method)

Crocking is the transfer of colorant from the surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another surface or to an adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing. This test method is designed to determine the amount of crocking. It is applicable to textiles made of all fibers in the form of yarn or fabric whether dyed, printed, or otherwise colored.

Three replicate specimens are each tested with wet and dry test cloth using the AATCC crockmeter for ten revolutions per cycle. The crock cloth is evaluated using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. A rating of 1 indicates extreme crocking, and a rating of 5 indicates negligible or no transfer of color.

Colorfastness to Laundering
(AATCC 61, Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated)

This accelerated test is designed for evaluating the colorfastness to laundering of textiles, which are expected to withstand frequent laundering. The fabric color loss resulting from detergent solution and abrasive action of five typical home launderings are closely approximated by one 45-minute test. Specimens are tested under appropriate conditions similar to those occurring in five home launderings. The abrasive action is the result of the frictional effects of fabric against the container, the low liquor ratio, and the impact of the steel balls on the fabric.

Colorfastness to Perspiration
(AATCC 15)

This test method is intended for use in determining the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns, and fabrics of all kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as applied to textiles.

Three specimens of colored textile are soaked in simulated acid perspiration solution, subjected to fixed mechanical pressure (10 lbs.) in the AATCC Perspirometer, and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature (100 F) in a circulating air oven for at least 6 hours. The effect of the test solution on the specimens is evaluated using the Gray Scale for color change; staining is evaluated on multi-fiber fabric using the gray scale for staining. Specimens are evaluated in the Macbeth Light Booth under daylight conditions.

Colorfastness to Water
(AATCC 107)

This method is designed to measure the resistance to water of dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile yarns and fabrics of all kinds. Distilled or de-ionized water is used in this test method because natural (tap) water is variable in composition.

The specimen, backed by multi-fiber fabric, is immersed in water under specified conditions of temperature and time, and then placed between plastic plates under specified conditions of pressure, temperature and time in the Perspirometer and oven. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the attached multi-fiber test fabric are observed using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color change and the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale respectively. Specimens are evaluated in the Macbeth Light Booth under daylight conditions.

Colorfastness to Water: Sea
(AATCC 106)

This method is designed to measure the resistance to seawater of dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile yarns and fabrics of all kinds. Artificial seawater is used in this test because seawater is variable in composition.

The specimen, backed by multi-fiber fabric, is immersed in artificial seawater under specified conditions of temperature and time, and then placed between plastic plates under specified conditions of pressure, temperature and time in the Perspirometer and oven. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the attached multi-fiber test fabric are observed using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color change and the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale respectively. Specimens are evaluated in the Macbeth Light Booth under daylight conditions.

Construction and Characteristics

Weight
(ASTM D3776, Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area [Weight] of Woven Fabric)

This test method covers the measurement of fabric mass per unit area (weight) and is applicable to all woven fabrics. Samples are conditioned under the standard atmosphere; specimens are die cut and weighed. The ounces per square yard are determined.

Performance Tests

Shrinkage
(AATCC 135, Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics)

Dimensional change is a generic term for changes in length and width of a fabric specimen subjected to specified conditions. The change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen.

This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven and knit fabrics when subjected to repeated laundering procedures commonly used in the home. Wash temperatures, agitation cycles, and drying procedures may be specified.

Snagging Resistance of Fabrics
(AATCC D3939, Mace Test Method)

This test method determines the snagging resistance of a fabric. Studies of fabric snagging have shown that this test method is suitable for a range of woven and knitted fabrics made from textured or non-textured yarns containing staple or continuous filaments.

A snag is created when an object pulls, plucks, scratches, or drags a group of fibers, yarn or a yarn segment from its normal pattern. Snags can be classified into three types:
1. Snags that have a protrusion and no distortion
2. Snags that have distortion and no protrusion
3. Snags that have both protrusion and distortion.
Fabric samples are conditioned in the standard atmosphere to reach equilibrium. Fabric samples in tubular form are placed one at a time on a cylindrical drum on the ABC Snag Tester. A mace (spiked ball) is allowed to bounce randomly against each rotating specimen. The degree of fabric snagging is evaluated by comparison of the tested specimens with visual photographic standards in the Macbeth light booth.

Strength and Stretch

Strength
(ASTM 5035, Breaking Force of Textile Fabrics)

This method covers raveled strip and cut strip test procedures for determining the breaking force of most textile fabrics. Provision is made for wet testing, if requested. The test method is not recommended for knitted fabrics or for other textiles that have high stretch.

A breaking force is the maximum force applied to a material carried to rupture. The constant-rate-of-traverse is a testing machine in which the pulling clamp which moves appreciably to actuate a weighing mechanism, so that the rate of increase of load is dependent upon the extension characteristics of the specimen. The raveled-strip method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipment since the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.

Stretch and Growth
(ASTM 2594, Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Lower Power)

This test method covers the determination of fabric growth and stretch of knitted fabrics intended for applications requiring low-power stretch properties. Low-power stretch is that property of a fabric whereby it exhibits high fabric stretch and good recovery from low loads.

Fabric stretch is the increase in length of a specimen of fabric resulting from a load applied under specified conditions. Growth is the difference between the original length of a specimen and its length after the application of a specified load for a prescribed time and the subsequent removal of the load. Stretch and growth are expressed as percentages of the original length.

Tear Resistance
(ASTM 1424, Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling Pendulum [Elmendorf] Apparatus)

This method covers a procedure for the determination of the average force required to propagate a single-rip tongue-type tear starting from a cut in a woven fabric by means of a falling pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus. The average force required to continue a tongue-type tear in a fabric is determined by measuring the fork created in tearing it through a fixed-distance.

Water Repellency

Water Repellency: Spray Test
(AATCC 22)

This test method is applicable to any textile fabric, which may or may not have been given a water-resistant or water-repellent finish. It measures the resistance of fabrics to wetting by water. It is especially suitable for the measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics, particularly plain woven fabrics. It is not intended for predicting the rain penetration resistance of fabrics, since it does not measure penetration through the fabric.

Water Resistance: Rain Test
(AATCC 35)

This test is applicable to any textile fabric, which may or may not have been given a water-resistant or water-repellent finish. It measures the resistance of fabrics to penetration of water by impact, and thus can be used to predict the probable rain penetration resistance of garment fabrics. With the instrument, tests may be made at different intensities of water impact to give a complet overall picture of the penetation resistance of a single fabric or combination of fabrics. (This test is used by US Customs.)

Water Resistance: Impact Penetration
(AATCC 42)

This test method is applicable to any textile fabric, which may or may not have been given a water-resistant or water-repellent finish. It measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of water by impact, and thus can be used to predict the probable rain penetration resistance of garment fabrics.

Ultraviolet Transmittance

Transmittance or Blocking of Erythermally Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics
(AATCC 183-1998)

This test method is used to determine the ultraviolet radiation blocked or transmitted by textile fabrics. Ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) includes wavelegnths of 280-400 nm; UV-A = 315-400, and UV-B = 280-315 nm. The transmission of ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) through a specimen is measured on a spectrophotmeter at known wavelength intervals. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) is computed and the percent transmittance of UVA and UVB is determined. The method can also be used to determine the UPF of wet and/or stretch fabrics.